By Jim David
They are not exactly ‘fine dining’, but who would want to go through life without eating at some of the ‘classic’ restaurants of Halifax.
My first five years in Halifax, from 1970-75, saw me living a five-minute walk from the Look HoHo on Bayers Road and the Westcliffe at Oxford and Bayers. In my recent visits back to the neighbourhood, the change is pronounced. Many single-family homes are replaced by new multi-story residences. The former RCMP headquarters is gone and soon will be a pre-primary to grade 8 CSAP (Conseil scolaire acadien provincial) school.
Big changes are in store at Windsor Park where Emergency Health Services helicopters are expected to land and then there is the Richmond Yards neighbourhood on Almon St. next to Johnny’s Snack Bar.
Look Ho Ho on Bayers Road.
We had three lunches this month at some of the institutional diners of the West End.
Johnny’s Snack Bar at 6204 Almon St., across from the Forum was originally James Snack Bar.
Present owners Johnny and Georgina have been on duty since the 1970s. Imagine getting up every day to open at 8 a.m., and working until closing at 7 p.m., six days a week! You’re not just on your feet cooking, serving and chatting-up customers, but dishes have to be washed, supplies have to be replenished, and the restaurant cleaned. This is plain ‘old world work ethnic’ and they get it done.
Georgina arrived in Halifax when she was only 13. She met and married Johnny in the ’70s and their children were born here. Sons Chris and Tasso have also grown up helping their parents and still come in most days to assist.
Johnny’s was originally called James Snack Bar, when it was owned by Georgina’s mother’s aunt and uncle, James and Anna Stappas.
Customers range from retired judges to long-time North End residents. A friend, who is a world traveled foodie and a pretty good chef to boot, told me he found this diner seven years ago and it’s now his most frequently visited restaurant. Simply put, the owners make you feel like family and there’s always the same familiar faces you see from visit to visit. We noticed one fellow who took his seat at the counter and had no hesitation to get up and make his own tea.
There’s a sign in the window when fresh clams are available. I hear they are delivered most Wednesdays which is also ‘pea soup day’.
We arrived for an early lunch on a Tuesday. I had heard of Georgina’s hamburger. It’s a favourite with regulars, fresh off the grill with onions and condiments on a fresh bun. There is nothing pretentious about it – just a great hamburger served the way it should be. You can add cheese, and if you order fries it’s known as the Deluxe! You won’t go wrong with this burger.
The Georgina Hamburger is only $6.50, with fries $10.95
What would a diner be without a clubhouse sandwich? That was my wife’s choice along with fries and coleslaw. Like the hamburger, it was perfect. Combine the clubhouse with pea soup and you have a meal for two to share.
Johnny’s Clubhouse ($13.95)
At Johnny’s, there are rotating daily specials. I’m told the double pork chop is worth checking out. Another friend has breakfast here most mornings. For many, Johnny’s breakfast is the way to start the day. Even on the day we visited at 11 a.m., we noticed at least half the patron’s had breakfast plates.
Son Chris Fasoulis told me on a busy Saturday they can serve as many as 150 breakfasts.
Chris told me parking is available at the Forum for Johnny’s customers. Just put your license plate info on the iPad in the restaurant.
Westcliffe Restaurant on Oxford at Bayers Road
Our next stop was at another mainstay known as Westcliffe Restaurant & Convenience. You’ll still find their hamburgers, onion rings, chips, poutine and clubhouse sandwiches at near ’90s prices and you can still eat at one of 15 counter stools that may go back to the ’60s.
Those who like Westcliffe like it a lot. It’s not unusual to see the same faces from day to day along with many local blue-collar workers who phone in their pick-up lunches. The day we visited, there were a few Dartmouth visitors and two young families who ate full meals for two-thirds of a Golden Arches bill.
Bev and Tyler have been running this place for 25-plus years. It’s safe to say they run a simple business with lots of help (from the customers). You walk in, pick up a menu and a square of paper on which you’re expected to place your order. You place it on the counter and wait your turn while the meal is prepared in full sight of all. When your hamburger, fish & chips, BLT, hot dog or hot sandwich is ready, you go up and get it. Along with your order, there are phoned-in takeouts going in brown paper bags for pick-up.
I had the clubhouse sandwich with onion rings ($8.50), three slices of toasted buttered white bread with fresh chicken, bacon, lettuce and tomato, held together by a toothpick.
The Westcliffe’s Clubhouse – thousands and thousands served
I managed to photograph the ‘cheeseburger and onion rings’, also $8.50
Bev does most of the cooking and you can overhear the interesting banter exchanges between the owners or with the regulars.
Not sure who or where the dishes get washed, but it’s helpful if you return your plates to the counter.
Charlie and Maria Tsuluhas owned the Westcliffe before they sold it to their waitress Bev about 26 years ago. The Tsuluhas family also had the Starlite on Bayers Road and the Armview on Chebucto Road. As we were leaving, we chatted with Bev who reminded me the popular Corned Beef and Cabbage weekly dinners are back for $9.50. It’s best to call to confirm the day and make sure your order is placed so you won’t be disappointed.
The Hospitable Bev
Look HoHo Restaurant at 6420 Bayers Road, according to its menu, has been serving “Quality Chinese Cuisine since 1959.” Because it was only a few blocks from my ‘university home’ in the early ’70s, I ate more than my share of egg rolls and combo plates here.
Look Ho Ho on Bayers Road.
The LookHoHo at 65 years!
In 2021, Catherine Lou became the new owner of the 62-year-old family run business. With the business, also came the many recipes for the longtime menu favourites. Not having eaten here in 49 years, I was anxious to see if they still had their delicious meat-filled egg rolls. They sure do and also have a carafe of plum sauce on the table. There is no asking for more sauce at Look HoHo. If you’re like me, you want some for your fried rice as well.
Our choices for dinner were a combo plate and a few house specialties. There are 12 combo plates of luncheon- and dinner-size. Our choice was Dinner #1, the beef fried rice, egg roll and chicken chow mein ($18). At Look HoHo, the rice, egg roll and chow mein are all served on separate dishes.
Look HoHo Cantonese Chow Mein, a chef’s specialty
I also ordered a chef specialty ‘ginger beef’, sliced tender beef, prepared in their special ginger sauce ($16). It was probably the best ginger beef I have had anywhere.
My second choice was our waitress’s recommendation, the Cantonese chow mein, with fine egg noodles sautéed with mixed vegetables, blended with chicken, BBQ pork, and shrimp ($19). Veggies included broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, onion, zucchini and celery. This dish is enough for three to share.
All dishes were brought to our table at the same time and were piping hot. As you can see from my pictures, there was enough to take home for another day.
The restaurant was more than half full and, all the while, takeouts were being picked up. I was left pondering why I had not been here in close to 50 years. Living on the east side of Halifax Harbour, FANS had become the only Chinese restaurant we frequent. For many of my younger years, China Town and House of Mei on the Bedford Highway were also long time favourites. I would be remiss if I did not give hono=rable mention to May Garden and Jean’s. If I were to reflect way back, my early memories would be of Wong’s and The Moonlight on Main Street, Antigonish.
What Year were you born?
Halifax has such diverse multicultural choices in dining. We are thankful for the many Greek and Chinese families who chose Halifax as their home and with them came the dishes that we like to indulge in.
I hope you’ve enjoyed reading “My Take” on three of the west end Halifax diners that have withstood the test of time.
