By Jim David
If you are one of the hundreds of thousands who are planning a visit to Nova Scotia’s most visited village, you may be looking for a few foodie options.
Near the Peggy’s Cove lighthouse, there’s the venerable Sou’Wester Restaurant, a favourite since 1967; the upstart patio takeout, Tom’s Lobster Shack; and, down near the parking area and Visitor Centre, is the imaginative Bubba MaGoo’s Bistro & Sweets Shop.
My Take this week features other choices to consider within a few kilometres. Upon leaving Peggy’s Cove, take a left toward Tantallon and Exit 5, and you’ll find Café L’Acadie in Indian Harbour, and Finer Diner in Hackett’s Cove. If you take a right toward Prospect, there’s Shaw’s Landing in West Dover.
The busy cruise season is over, so Peggy’s Cove will be much quieter in the coming months. Jim David Photo
I’ve visited Café L’Acadie several times and am always happy to see the flags of Nova Scotia and Acadia beckoning me to their diner at Indian Harbour. Acadian-themed, with dishes like Rappie pie, Fricot, and Meat Pie, there’s also fresh seafood like great lobster rolls, chowder, fish and chips and creamed lobster on toast.
The Café L’Acadie has seating for 40. Jim David Photo
Inside there are lots of Acadian-themed souvenirs for sale. Jim David Photo
Gary and Roland run an efficient, friendly café near the busiest tourist destination in the province. With lots of fresh seafood and Acadian favourites is the perfect destination on your way back to the city or South Shore, after being awed by Peggy’s Cove.
The lobster rolls are as good as you can get anywhere in the province. Fresh lobster with some mayo on lettuce on a home-baked roll. The home-cut fries are a bonus. ($28.95) Jim David Photo
Owners Gary and Roland started this business selling Acadian rapure on weekends. This is still one of the Sunday specials. During the week, the menu has ‘Rappie Bites’ ($10.95) with Crosby molasses. Jim David Photo
Customers have followed the owners from their original locations for authentic Acadian cuisine, especially their Sunday Rappie Pie (rapure). The menu is Acadian-themed, with lobster, haddock, seafood chowder, fricot, potato pancakes, fishcakes, and so much more. All menu items are homemade, including traditional Acadian scrumptious desserts.
Café L’Acadie owner, Gary was born into a large family in the Acadian village of Cheticamp. “Our home was the gathering place for friends and relatives. Our mother loved to cook and, growing up, I could sit for hours and listen to her sing all the old traditional Acadian songs as she scurried about the kitchen cooking.
“On special occasions, I would watch in amazement at the fiddlers, mandolin and guitar players sitting around the kitchen table, while the rest would sing out loud and strong, Acadian songs of old. With fricot on the stove, rappie and rabbit pies in the oven, and desserts galore, it all fed the soul.”
Marinated carrots often accompany a main course. Jim David Photo
Gary took the time to take me through the process where he parboils the carrots, then makes a tomato-based marinade and vacuum seal the portions until needed. The carrots develop a great flavour and tenderness when served several months later.
The dessert selections are bound to bring back memories of growing up Acadian. Pouding Chomeur (dumpling-like cake), bread pudding, apple crisp, and even blueberry buckle were all made by my grandmother and served regularly at my home. Café L’Acadie uses maple syrup in many of the desserts and actually offers maple products for sale on-site. We were planning on a dessert but eventually passed on this opportunity until our next visit!
Fall hours: Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Open on Monday, Thursday & Friday 11 a.m. – 7 p.m. and Saturday/Sunday 10 a.m. – 7 p.m.
A little further along Hwy. 333 is beautiful Hackett’s Cove and historic Boutilier’s Cove. Jim David Photo
The Finer Diner in Hackett’s Cove is our next stop. Stunning views of the wharves and fishing boats from the diner’s parking lot make for a great photo. Jim David Photo
Inside the Finer Diner, you’ll find a classic diner look with some interesting art and friendly service. Our waitress host was a young lady who came to Canada two years ago from Ukraine. She travels to work each day from Dartmouth.
Inside the Finer Diner. Jim David Photo
On our most recent visit, we enjoyed their Atlantic Lobster Roll with Ryer’s lobster, gently mixed with mayo and diced celery, nestled in a toasted roll and paired with crisp coleslaw and a small bowl of today’s soup, a Beet Borscht.
Finer Diner Lobster Roll ($25). Jim David Photo
We’ve had our share of lobster rolls and club sandwiches in recent months. I should be maintaining a rating system as we travel through our seaside province.
Here’s the Finer Diner’s triple-decker club sandwich with Ryer’s lobster, crispy bacon, fresh lettuce, ripe tomato, creamy mayo, crunchy coleslaw and your choice of side ($28). Jim David Photo
Fall hours will mean these small businesses may be closed on certain days and have shorter hours.
After many times passing through West Dover, it’s taken me more than 20 years to drop into Shaw’s Landing on Hwy. 333 to Peggy’s Cove. Jim David Photo
As a connoisseur of fish & chips, my first meal was their two-piece Golden Fried special. Fresh Atlantic haddock lightly battered served with homemade tartar and fries. For lunch, this order can be shared. ($15). Jim David Photo
Their Famous Chowder is cream-based with haddock, shrimp, clams, scallops and a bit of lobster ($17). As chowders go, I would have liked just a bit more seafood. Accompanied by a roll, my serving was fine for lunch. Jim David Photo
The Shaw’s Landing Lobster Roll is available two ways: Served with hunks of local lobster stuffed into a grilled roll, you can have it with your choice of traditional mayo or hot butter, and of course, it comes with fries. Compared to most places around, this is a good deal at $25 but the price changes depending on market price. Jim David Photo
The Shaw’s Landing menu appeals to all, including non-fish patrons, with burgers, sandwiches and salads. From the seafood side, there are scallops, oysters, calamari and fish cakes.
Shaw’s Landing has an interesting history. It opened after the Swiss Air tragedy of 1998 when a Mr. Shaw migrated following his daughter’s death in Swiss Air111. Current owners are now local folk (from nearby Prospect) and have carried on the Shaw success.
The views from both the second dining room and the patio are wonderful. Jim David Photo
I’ve been told they don’t take reservations. The restaurant was closed for a few days in early October for a movie shoot.
Shaw’s Landing hours are from noon to 8 p.m. daily but it’s always good to call ahead to make sure the restaurant is open.
Since 2023, there has been a seafood takeout with picnic tables on the turn as you leave West Dover. It’s locally owned and, while not included in this piece, I enjoyed their offerings once.
After close to 50 trips to Peggy’s Cove this season, I’ll admit to sharing many servings of good seafood with guests in Nova Scotia and no one was disappointed.
A final word of caution – many of the gift shops are now closed for the season and, remember, please call ahead if you are specifically interested in one of the diners featured today.
Scenic West Dover. Jim David Photo
