By Jim David
It took several visits to Montreal earlier this year to convince me to go Hali Deli right here on Agricola St. in Northend Halifax.
Hali Deli opened in 2012 in this gentrified neighbourhood. Victor Fineberg, a fixture on the Halifax dining scene for close to 40 years decided to open Hali Deli to showcase the amazing dishes of his wife Sybil. Victor made his first dollar selling 49 cent hotdogs. He moved quickly up the food chain with such well-known fine dining places as Jon Allan’s Steakhouse. There were some rough spots in Victor’s career but his love of food and nostalgia all came together in Hali Deli.
Until his sudden passing in December 2022, Victor would toil daily with Sybil and a small staff, seven days a week at 2389 Agricola St. The building itself has an interesting history having been one of two Cousin’s Restaurants for 35 years. Before Cousin’s, it was also another family restaurant for many years.
For the last few weeks, I set my sights on a first visit to Hali Deli and chose a Sunday. In addition to the regular weekday menu, there are also a few added items for weekend brunch: Hali Benny on Latkes, Challah French Toast, and Steak & Eggs with Deli Hash. You can bet that hash is made with either smoked meat or their corned beef.
Serial restaurateur Victor Fineberg died Dec. 20th, 2022 at a young 65. (Atlantic Jewish Council photo).
Victor Fineberg. Andrew MacDonald Photo
Hali Deli at 2389 Agricola St. Jim David Photo
I was struck how extensive the Hali Deli menu is. There’s chicken soup with a matzah ball and egg noodles, a deli Caesar salad, bagels, Aunt Lil’s cabbage rolls, and even liver & onions, Hali dogs, Hali burgers, and tuna melts. This is truly authentic Jewish fare!
The Reuvens Reuben: Piled smoked meat, sauerkraut, melted Swiss on grilled rye, with Russian dressing ($18.50). Jim David Photo
My favourite of the two sandwiches was the Reuben. The bread was toasted and the meat melted in your mouth. The sandwiches are all served with house-cut fries, coleslaw and a kosher sour dill pickle spear. You can substitute fries for potato salad or potato hash for $2.50, house salad for $3.50, Caesar salad for $4.50 or poutine for $5: Just upgrade when you choose. The house fries are probably the best house-cut fries anywhere and the order was generous. I could not get enough of the deli coleslaw. If malt vinegar is your thing for fries, ask for it if not offered. The other condiments are on your table.
Hali Deli can have lineups at times. There’s seating for at least 40 at vintage tables and chairs plus the counter stools. Service is super friendly. On Sunday, there was one server adeptly handling the crowd and three cooks in the kitchen.
The walls of Hali Deli are awash in vintage posters and pictures. Jim David Photo
Hali Deli is open seven days a week until 3 p.m. A word of caution, Google Maps notes it is open until 5 p.m. (it’s not). It is cash sales only. There’s an ATM located in the restaurant if you’re caught short of cash.
Hali Deli sells its smoked meat, corned beef, smoked turkey, and smoked salmon by the pound, plus other items like kosher sour dills and hotdogs.
I’m told Hali Deli sources its smoked meat from Lester’s in Montreal. Lester’s has been around for 70 plus years, and its smoked meat is closer to corned beef. The flavor profile is close to bologna. This is not a bad thing. Its history is not quite the 97 years of Schwartz ‘s or Dunns but those who like it, obviously like it a lot.
If the tables are full, there’s a vintage stool at the counter at Hali Deli. Jim David Photo
Hali Deli brunch specials on the board. Jim David photo.
Hali Deli artwork.
For those who followed my travels on Via Rail’s Ocean (The Notebook in October) know I visited Montreal this summer. While there, I had an opportunity for both fine and casual dining. Visits to two of Montreal’s famous delicatessens allows me to share pictures and a comparison of Schwartz’s Deli on St. Laurence Blvd. and Dunn’s at 1249 Metcalfe St. in downtown Montreal.
Schwartz’s Deli’s slogan: “A Montreal landmark that has welcomed countless celebrities and visitors from all over the world for almost a century – serving the world’s best smoked meat since 1928.”
It was a rainy Thursday afternoon when we set off by Metro and bus to find Schwartz’s. We arrived at the landmark location to find a line-up waiting outside in the rain. I couldn’t help but think of the millions of patrons who had preceded me on this very sidewalk.
This original location, still using its original recipe, was founded in 1928 by Reuben Schwartz, a Jewish immigrant from Romania. Jim David Photo
The half sandwich with Schwartz’s house fries and slaw. Jim David Photo
Our waiter tells us, “Schwartz’s Deli prepares smoked meat the old-fashioned way, on location, using a secret blend of locally produced fine herbs and spices, marinated for 10 days; smoked overnight, steamed all day; and sliced by hand with love.” Wow! I will admit, they have extraordinary customer service. They know how to maximize their space, get your order, and deliver it to your table quickly.
Brisket to go. Jim David Photo
We’re told you can freeze their brisket tightly in shrink wrap for up to six months. We had some leftovers for a late evening snack back at the hotel while we pondered a visit to the competition.
Dunn’s was a 10-minute walk from my hotel in the heart of downtown at 1249 Metcalfe, near the Eaton Centre, McGill and Concordia universities, Via Rail and the movie theatres. Imagine a location like that and open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.
Dunns in the heart of Montreal. Jim David Photo
There are four Dunns locations in Montreal but the Metcalfe location is the original since 1927. Jim David Photo
Dunns is a totally different experience from Schwartz’s. Here you have an authentic old-fashioned diner experience with plush red booths stools. The walls are covered with memories detailing its rich history and customers.
There are four other locations in Montreal but the Metcalfe location is the original Dunn’s since 1927. Jim David Photo
I visited Dunns twice and experienced two menu favourites. My first visit’s choice was Quebec’s famous poutine.
This is the Dunns ‘Quebecoise’ and like all their poutines, it features fresh cheese curds with fresh cut fries.
Did you know ‘poutine’ means ‘messy’ in English. Speaking of language, Quebec’s language law was challenged by Dunns many years ago. Under Bill 101, smoked meat should have been advertised as viande fumée or even bœuf marine. The courts ruled in owner Myer Dunn’s favour and Mr. Dunn was pleased with the publicity received in the high profile case. He recalled sharing, that even when the judge in the case ordered his meal, he ordered ‘smoked meat’. Today, Myer Dunn’s great-grandson, Andrew Kligman, leads the charge as Dunns VP.
The Dunns menu is extensive. There are various combos of smoked meat sandwiches, pan fried rice with smoked meat, smoked meat with sauerkraut, a smoked meat clubhouse and even a smoked meat pizza.
My choice was Le Petit Combo, a small sandwich served on rye bread with fresh cut fries, coleslaw and a slab of dill ($21.95). Jim David Photo
There’s a ‘super combo’ also available, but that would be way too much for me! Regrettably I didn’t have room for their fresh-baked apple crisp, a sundae or cheesecake.
If you find yourself exploring Montreal, a must is a smoked brisket lunch at either the iconic Schwartz’s Deli or Dunns. My favourite of the two, on a subsequent Montreal visit would be Dunns, but either Schwartz or Dunns is a Montreal ‘must’ do!
Hali Deli is a Halifax ‘must do dine’. Jim David Photo
On the other hand, if Montreal isn’t in your immediate future, don’t deprive yourself of a great smoked meat sandwich closer to home at Hali Deli at 2389 Agricola St.
Thank you, Victor Fineberg. The spirit of a great Halifax restaurateur lives on.
