By Jim David
My boss, Andrew, encouraged me to write a piece on a unique food business located in a Novalea Drive strip mall a little north of Duffus St. I was curious when he told me not to expect many tables (just one) and the owner/cook would probably be in the kitchen as well as taking my order. It’s been one of my most enjoyable assignments.
Novalea Kitchen & Market is open weekdays from 10-6 p.m., but when I arrived early on a Thursday afternoon, the daily selections had all been sold except for a few cookies. The date also happened to be a few days before the celebration of Eid Mubarak and chef/owner Rita Rhammaz was fully engaged in preparing for the “happy festival.”
Before I tell you about Rita and her kitchen, let me tell you about the Kingdom of Morocco. It’s in North Africa with coastlines on the Mediterranean Sea and Atlantic Ocean, borders Algeria and has a population of 37 million. Islam is both the official and predominant religion, while Arabic and Berber are the official languages. French and the Moroccan dialect of Arabic are widely spoken. The capital is Rabat, while its largest city is Casablanca.
Rita Rhammaz, the chef and owner, is busy in her kitchen. My first visit in early June was just before the celebration of Eid Mubarak. She was fully involved in cooking and preparing special orders for her friends and clients. Jim David photo
Rita was born in Morocco but came to Canada at the age of 17 and enrolled at the University of Montreal for her degree some 30 years ago. She is a mother of three (20, 17 and 10) and her husband works at Dalhousie University. She and her husband and oldest child have lived in Halifax since 2005. Rita was a stay-at-home Mom and also provided an after-school French language program.
However, during COVID, she decided to follow a dream and expand her horizons. She put forward a business plan to sell the food she liked best (Tastes of Morocco), cater to local businesses and corporate clients and build a kitchen that she could share with folks who needed a place to prepare their offerings at local markets. Rita opened Nova Lea Kitchen & Market in December 2022.
Her kitchen is equipped with commercial-grade appliances, including a bakery oven, six-burner range with oven, fryer, grill, walk-in fridge and more. She charges for use by the hour with cold and dry storage, available at an extra charge if needed.
Choices at Novalea Kitchen. Jim David photo
At Nova Lea Kitchen & Market, a limited but popular menu changes weekly and sells out daily. Starting in July, the parking lot at her business becomes a market on Saturdays where friends gather with food and music. Rita tells me there will be breakfast selections like the popular almond croissant, as well as items featured from her regular menu.
Almond croissants are also available during the week but sell out quickly. Jim David photo
I suggest you check Nova Lea’s Facebook page for her weekly offerings. Call Rita early in the week, and she’ll let you know a good time to arrive and pick up your meal. The choices last week included lasagna, Moroccan chicken, meatballs and quiche.
The Moroccan meatballs are made with beef from Oultons, a fourth-generation family-run farm in the Annapolis Valley that specializes in quality beef, buffalo and bison, as well as poultry. What you’ll remember about Rita’s meatballs is the sauce. There’s garlic, onion and tomato with special spices including cinnamon, which she tells me, cuts down on the acid in the tomatoes. The meatballs and sauce are wonderful with her saffron rice. Moroccans love to dip bread in the warm, zesty, sweet sauce.
Moroccan meatballs with two sides, saffron rice and couscous. Jim David Photo
Couscous is the national dish of Morocco, and epitomizes a blend of the country’s flavours. Rita uses roasted veggies in hers. You can detect the turmeric, cumin, coriander and cinnamon. No one spice dominates the other. When I served my couscous, it was warm, but I think it’s perfectly fine as a cold side.
Moroccans cook using a tagine, a conical-shaped vessel for stews or sauces. Lamb is often the meat of choice with a sauce of roasted vegetables, spices, dried fruit and nuts. Depending on who is in the kitchen, secret spice blends may vary from one home to another.
Chickens are roasted daily. When I arrived, I had to wait for two chickens which were cooking in the commercial oven. Jim David Photo
While I waited, Rita told me her chickens are “halal”, that is, the animals are slaughtered and prepared under Islamic law. She also told me about my meal that was still in the oven. One of her kitchen essentials is preserved lemons, an important ingredient in Moroccan cooking, and she bottles them for regular use. Fresh lemons are washed thoroughly, then quartered and salted. They are bottled and, after a month, are ready to use for the lemony flavour you’ll get in Moroccan dishes. When I read up on the process, I found that some cooks put peppercorns, bay leaf and sugar in addition to the salt. I was reminded of the Acadian favourite, ‘salted green onions’.
When the chickens are almost baked, Rita takes them from the oven and bastes them with the sauce and adds olives. Jim David Photo
Moroccan chicken served with sides of saffron rice, couscous and roasted potatoes. Jim David Photo
One of Rita’s regular menu offerings is Chicken Tajine, braised chicken in tomato sauce, preserved lemon, saffron and olives. I am going to use lemons, tomatoes, garlic and olives when I next roast whole chicken or chicken pieces.
Lasagna is a menu item offered at Nova Lea Kitchen. I brought home a serving to enjoy for lunch. A green side salad would be a great accompaniment. Jim David Photo
Rita reminded me that two hundred million years ago, we shared the same continent called Pangaea. What is now Morocco and Nova Scotia drifted apart, with the Atlantic Ocean separating them. Even today, North America continues to move westward, as Africa moves eastward.
I asked Rita about her clientele, who I thought might reflect the local multicultural community. Rita says she serves 80 per cent of Canadians who mostly come from the local Hydrostone neighbourhood and north to the MacKay Bridge.
The Hydrostone area is known as one of the top neighbourhoods in Canada in which to reside. Built after the Richmond District was destroyed in the Halifax Explosion, street parking tends to be limited, so plan accordingly. Jim David Photo
There are choices for your sweet tooth, too. Moroccan Macaroons are simply crushed almonds, egg and icing sugar and baked for 10 minutes. I’m told there will be an announcement soon that these will be available at a popular specialty shop here in the city.
While the chicken was baking, I watched Rita make her Moroccan Macaroons. Jim David Photo
Moroccan Macarons are ready after 10 minutes in the oven. Jim David Photo
Moroccan Macaroons – These little gems are addictive. Jim David Photo
Don’t count on it, but I’m told there are surprise bags filled with the delicious food that the store has left at the end of the day. It might contain prepared food, pastries or grocery items. Some items might be close to or passed the best before date, however, still great to enjoy.
I thoroughly enjoyed my experience at Nova Lea Kitchen and Market. After an hour with Rita, I picked up a few healthy eating tips and a greater appreciation for the tastes from Morocco. Here’s hoping to get back during the summer for their parking lot market on Saturdays.
Novalea Kitchen & Market. Jim David Photo
Rita Rhammaz, owner of Novalea Kitchen & Market. Jim David photo
Novalea Kitchen & Market in Halifax’s north end on Novalea Drive just after Gottingen St. Jim David Photo
